A detailed new study by IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute, commissioned by Humana Lithuania, follows the journey of used textiles from collection and pre-sorting in Sweden to export and resale in Kenya and finds the system valuable both economically and ecologically. The findings demonstrate significant benefits to Kenya’s economy, environment, and job market, contradicting the false narrative that Africa serves as a dumping ground for low-quality textiles.
The report follows the journey of used textiles from Sweden to Kenya’s mitumba markets. It examines the sustainability implications of exporting second-hand clothing (SHC), including the operation of the trade, relevant legislation, and quality assurance practices.
The study also highlights the market dynamics in Kenya and the potential socio-economic impacts, such as job creation and local economic activity, and finds that a prevalent criticism – that exporting second-hand clothes to Kenya constitutes dumping of low-quality garments – is not supported by evidence.
Amanda Martvall, a textile expert and co-author of the report, added, “The mitumba market in Kenya is a clear example of a well-functioning circular value chain in practice, and exporting unusable used textiles would not make economic sense – no evidence was found in Kenya that supports this claim. Instead, specialised sorting centres carefully grade and categorise garments by quality and type, adding value at each stage and ensuring that only marketable clothing reaches new users. In contrast, the rise of ultra-fast fashion and the accelerating consumption of new clothing is deeply concerning. This is where fundamental change is urgently needed.”
The case study follows the highly organised and methodical nature of the second-hand clothing trade, showing how the used clothes are manually sorted and rigorous quality control is built into every stage of the process. Skilled and trained workers perform thorough sorting and frequent inspections at Humana Lithuania and global partner facilities, ensuring that only marketable items reach Kenyan shores.
“Our operations are specifically designed to ensure only quality textiles that have market value are exported,” explained Orjan Osterdal, CEO of Humana Lithuania. “This methodical approach benefits both the environment and local economies, clearly dispelling the dumping myth and underlining the importance of the trade for a truly circular textile economy.”
Key findings from the report include:
- Dumping is not profitable: Given Kenya’s high import taxes on mitumba, approximately 40% of shipment costs, or around EUR 0.62 per kilogram, importing textiles to discard them in landfills or incinerators would be economically unfeasible.
- Robust Kenyan market dynamics: The Baltic Textile Trading (BTT) and Think Twice retail chains in Kenya implement strategic pricing cycles that maximise garment reuse, demonstrating sophisticated consumer awareness and market efficiency.
- Circular economy and job creation: The SHC trade generates employment opportunities, ranging from collection and sorting in Europe to retail operations in Kenya.
- System supports humanitarian fundraising: In the Global North, sorting and resale of used clothing is frequently carried out by charitable organisations and social-value businesses, with profits reinvested to support humanitarian causes in the Global South.
- Effective sorting and quality control are key: In 2024, approximately 38,000 tons of used textiles were sorted at Humana Lithuania’s sorting centers in Vilnius and Oman, including 11,000 tons sourced from Sweden.
- Textiles are sorted into over 400 categories based on quality and market needs.
- Only clean, wearable items are exported to Kenya.
In summary, the study highlights the critical role African markets, such as Kenya, play in ensuring sustainable textile management globally and demonstrates how the trade, after rigorous sorting processes in Europe, positively impacts Kenya’s local economy through job creation, small-business opportunities, and affordable clothing options for consumers.
Mathias Gustavsson, co-author of the report, added, “Export markets like Kenya play a crucial role in European textile sustainability. Without these markets, many reusable textiles would inevitably be incinerated or sent to landfills due to limited recycling infrastructure in Europe.”
The full report can be downloaded here.